Volnay Clos des Ducs 2018

The 2018 Volnay 1er Cru Clos des Ducs has turned out very nicely in bottle, mingling aromas of raspberries and blood orange with hints of espresso roast and sweet soil tones. Medium to full-bodied, concentrated and multidimensional, it's impressively fine-boned and elegant, the inherently muscular vintage notwithstanding, with a vibrant core of fruit, exquisitely powdery tannins and a long, saline finish. If d'Angerville's 2018 Champans is a fine example of the year, the Clos des Ducs by contrast transcends it. (WK, 1/2021)